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Short answer: A 2JZ-to-CD009 swap uses a billet adapter plate to mate the Nissan CD009 six-speed to your 2JZ or 1JZ block. Autosports Engineering's kits include the adapter plate, flywheel, crossmember, pilot bearing, and hardware — you'll separately need a clutch, driveshaft, and (on most chassis) a shifter relocation solution. This guide walks through the full install process using real ASE parts, plus the torque and fitment details that actually matter.

Still deciding between 1JZ and 2JZ? See our 1JZ vs 2JZ comparison guide. Already know which kit fits your chassis? See our CD009 Compatibility Guide for the full kit-by-chassis breakdown and pricing. This guide covers the install itself.

Skill level & time

Skill level: Intermediate to advanced  |  Tools: Engine hoist or transmission jack, torque wrench, basic hand tools  |  Estimated time: 8–16 hours depending on chassis and experience

Why builders choose CD009 for a 2JZ swap

The CD009 (sourced from the 350Z/370Z) has become a common upgrade path once builders outgrow the factory R154 or W58 — it's a stronger six-speed with aftermarket support that's kept pace with demand. Rough positioning for reference:

Note: torque capacity figures for used gearboxes vary widely by condition and clutch pairing — we've left specific numbers out here rather than repeat unverified figures. Talk to us about your power target and we'll help size the right clutch.

What's in the ASE conversion kit

Every ASE CD009 adapter kit (chassis-specific versions available for Supra MK4, Supra MK3, IS300, SC300, GS300, 240SX S13, and 350Z) includes:

• Billet 6061 aluminum J1/J2 adapter plate
• Flywheel
• Transmission crossmember & mount (chassis-specific kits)
• Pilot bearing & bearing rings
• All mounting hardware

See the full kit lineup by chassis for exact pricing and options (front/rear shifter add-ons, slave cylinder configuration).

Parts you'll need beyond the base kit

Billet hybrid flywheel

Twin disc clutch kit

You'll also need a driveshaft — your stock shaft will not fit. Plan for a custom shaft or slip-yoke conversion sized to your chassis; measure tunnel clearance before ordering.

Installation walkthrough

Step 1: Remove the stock transmission

• Drain transmission fluid
• Disconnect driveshaft, shifter linkage, and sensors
• Support the engine (jack stand under the oil pan with a block of wood)
• Remove the crossmember and lower the transmission on a transmission jack, sliding it rearward to clear the input shaft

Step 2: Install the adapter plate

• Clean the mating surface on the block thoroughly — debris here causes misalignment
• Torque the adapter plate bolts in a cross pattern to the spec sheet included with your specific ASE kit
• Check alignment with a straight edge before proceeding

Step 3: Prep the input shaft & pilot bearing

• Press the included pilot bearing into the crankshaft
• Confirm the input shaft tip seats fully — this is the most common fitment issue, almost always caused by the wrong bearing
• Install your flywheel and clutch using an alignment tool, torquing to your flywheel/clutch manufacturer's spec

Step 4: Mate the transmission to the engine

• Guide the input shaft through the clutch disc(s) and into the pilot bearing — don't force it; if it won't slide in smoothly, recheck clutch alignment
• Once fully seated against the adapter plate, install and torque the bellhousing bolts per your kit's spec sheet

Step 5: Driveshaft fitment

• Measure tunnel clearance before ordering your custom shaft
• Provide your driveshaft shop with the slip yoke-to-differential measurement
• If using a slip-yoke conversion, confirm proper phasing to avoid vibration

Step 6: Shifter linkage & tunnel clearance

• CD009 shifter position differs from stock — most chassis need a shifter relocation kit or tunnel modification (front or rear shifter options are available as kit add-ons for most chassis)
• Test shifter movement through all gears before closing up the tunnel

Step 7: Fluid fill & break-in

• Use a GL-4 fluid — avoid GL-5, which can damage brass synchros
• Check for leaks at the adapter plate and rear seal
• Drive conservatively for the first several hundred miles while the clutch seats

Which clutch: twin disc or single disc?

Twin disc is the standard recommendation for higher-torque 2JZ builds — it holds power without the chatter or rotating mass penalty of an oversized single disc. If your build isn't pushing serious torque, the billet hybrid flywheel paired with a single disc clutch is the simpler, lower-cost route.

Bearing options

Pro tips

• Mark your driveshaft phasing before removal so your driveshaft shop can reference it
• Never skip or substitute the pilot bearing — a wrong bearing will destroy your input shaft within miles
• Check bellhousing alignment with a dial indicator if you have one; even small misalignment accelerates clutch and bearing wear
• Budget for the driveshaft — it's the most commonly underestimated cost in this swap

Common questions

What torque specs should I use?

Always torque to the spec sheet included with your specific ASE kit rather than a generic number — adapter plate, bellhousing, and flywheel bolt specs can vary by kit revision. Our official install video above walks through the full process.

Do I need a twin disc clutch?

Not necessarily — it depends on your power target. Twin disc is the standard for higher-torque builds; for milder builds, our billet hybrid flywheel paired with a single disc clutch is simpler and less expensive.

Will my stock driveshaft fit?

No. Every CD009 swap needs a custom or modified driveshaft — measure tunnel clearance and provide your driveshaft shop with accurate measurements before ordering.

How do I know which chassis-specific kit to order?

See our CD009 Compatibility Guide for the full breakdown by chassis and engine. Still deciding between 1JZ and 2JZ? Start with our 1JZ vs 2JZ comparison guide.

Ready to get started?

Browse the full CD009 kit lineup, or reach out with your chassis and power goals and we'll help you build the right parts list.